I never thought much about the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Evo 3 watches until I was able to get my hands on one. They just weren't of the type of design that visually stands out to me. They felt a bit on the "older" side of sport watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas models. Then I was able to actually put one on my wrist and I saw a lot of value that was originally lost to me. One of the things that the Laureato Evo 3 does well is present a good looking three dimensional dial. Nothing is flat on it. Basically, most cheap watches look cheap because they have flat printed dials with hands floating over them (too simple to really look good these days). Look at the dial here for example and it basically the opposite. The dial itself is deeply textured with repeating squares, with a different style of chapter ring around it, with applied raised luminant dots. The power reserve indicator is applied with steel and red tones. the subsidiary seconds dial is framed with an applied ring and the moon phase disc itself is a level lower than the dial. Each of the hour indicators is in polished and brushed steel and also applied to the dial. Lastly the hands are lume filled and have a slight fold for a non-flat look. All these visual features not only make the dial look more complex and of a higher quality, but defy any appearance of dial flatness! This is even hard to tell in the marketing image, you actually need to see a real image of the watch to notice these things. See what I mean?

The 44mm wide steel case has that octagon bezel that looks like a bit like the classic Gerald Genta designs (AP Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, etc... The dial design also reminds me of these classic designs as well. And so does the metal bracelet! The look is nice, without being weird. The Laureato watches sort of have that "grow on you" appeal if I anticipate this fact correctly. I particularly like the mixture of functions that this Sport Classique Laureato Evo 3 Large Date watch offers. Just a unique combo and layout for a sport watch. The in-house made Girard Perregaux automatic mechanical movement has the time, subsidiary seconds, big date, moon phase indicator, and a power reserve indicator. The layout is well balanced and the features are functional. It is an amazingly refined sport type watch that has sort of an Italian flair, even though it is a Swiss watch.

For me, the watch style, quality, proportions, and brand pedigree are a good combo. I feel bad for over looking this watch line for so long. I knew it was a nice watch when I put on the metal bracelet and it fit so nicely and was so well-made. I just love well-made metal bracelets. It is a cool watch for people that don't always want to be thought of as "cool." When not active looking it appears highly respectable. "Respectable." being a term I would generally apply to most all Girard Perregaux watches. You might not like the style of them all, but at least they afford a head nod. One of this nice watches with the dark blue dial is available on James List (the watch is also available with an off-white dial). Price there on James List is just over $9,000 for this Girard Perregaux Watches Classic Laureato Evo 3 Large Date watch.

Hardcore diving watches with moon phase complications? Not too many of those around. Sure the concept seems paradoxical, but when you think about it, there could be a functional component to this power combo of uses. Some divers need to be aware of the tides, and the tides are influenced by moon. There could be some correlation here? Maybe that is a stretch, but when it comes down to it such a small percentage of dive watch owners actually dive. The style of the watch is more an indicator of build strength and the wearer's personality these days. So while most dive watches are up to "the task," few of them are actually called upon for deep duty.

Nevertheless the Linde Werdelin Oktopus dive watch has you covered in most any sport watch contingency, and this new version adds an interesting style of moonphase indication to the dial. The movement used is also very interesting. I originally discussed the Linde Werdelin Oktopus watch here (while look at that article check at the bottom for a few other "related posts" where I also discuss the watch and get some images of it). You will recall that this 1,111 meter water resistant dive watch is a first from the brand, and has been continued a bit in a few versions. This newest version gets more of a luxury treatment. The case dimensions stay the same, as does the titanium construction, but a nicely made rose gold bezel is used with minute indicators in relief (more gold is used on the dial for the hands and the hour indicators). I've seen watch Linde Werdelin does with gold cases and it is really cool. They are becoming quite adept at playing with alternating polished. Because the watch has a sapphire crystal over the face as well as on the caseback with a view to the movement, the water resistance of this Moonphase model is down to 888 meters (like that changes what you are going to do with the watch?). This is because the other Oktopus models have a totally  metal caseback.

The new golden stance and features of the Oktopus Moonphase take it in a different direction that the other versions. While most Oktopus watches are designed with a style that yells "sink me and test my limits." The Oktopus Moonphase seems to suggest a more congenial afternoon or activity though it won't make too much of a fuss when it comes to times that you might need a dedicated sports watch. In order to maintain a good view of the moonphase, the large hands have been skeletonized a bit. This will marginally effect legibility. Lots of SuperLumiNova is still present all over the dial. The moon phase indicator itself is an interesting design. Made by Svend Andersen over a Frederic Piguet Watches Calibre 1150 movement, it has photo-realistic moon images that also glow realistically. Reading the moonphase is simple as there is a small indicator  at the center of the dial for reading what the phase it. The style of indicator also can show you whether the moon is waning or waxing. Plus, you can used to dial to easily calculate how many days until the next phase of the moon. Kudos to Svend Andersen and Linde Werdelin for conceiving and implementing a unique touch such as this on a dive watch.

Until now (other than the SpidoLite watches), most Linde Werdelin watches contained high-grade ETA movement. That is going to change, and the Oktopus Moonphase is one of the first indicators of this. As a collector oriented brand, Linde Werdelin wants to give its clients the most bang for their buck. As such, they are going to start using even higher-end, more exclusive movements in their watches. Inside this watch is a modified Frederic Piguet Calibre 1150 automatic movement. While  Frederic Piguet is actually a sister company of ETA, they make movements used in brands such as Blancpain, Breguet, and Ulysse Nardin. Starting to have movements like this in watches of an entirely different species like Linde Werdelin is a big benefit to the brand, and will really attract the eyes of collectors looking for the best, and most interesting watches (love that long sentence). I am quite happy that Linde Werdelin is going to be moving in this higher status direction.

If you want a Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase watch you will have to act soon. The timepieces will be available in a limited edition of just 29 pieces and won't start shipping until the Fall. I'll get a hands on look at them though next month a Baselworld 2010. Not sure about the price yet, but it will be above $10,000 for sure.